“this is a very beautiful country. the mountains, the rivers — a paradise.”
the man sitting at the table next to me says it without looking up from his crossword puzzle.
we are the only people on the restaurant terrace of the hotel.
the bosna flows just below. the wooden wheel by the river,
usually used to turn the spit, stands still.
eventually, he tells me very casually
that it was him who converted a former wehrmacht bunker into this hotel,
some two kilometers from the river’s source,
and that he also founded the bosnian tourism board.
i tell him that i’ve come here to photograph the river, the landscape, the people,
and ask him what he would recommend i see along the river going upstream.
he glances over the river. the wheel doesn’t move.
then he leans in and says,
“i wouldn’t recommend anything to anybody there. nothing.”